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The Journals Jedediah Smith

Ordered to San Diego

The Californians are excellent horsemen. They catch a wild steer or horse with the most remarkable ease when on a swift horse. They are seldom seen on foot but mount a horse to even 200 yards and always carry a strong rope made from pieces of ox hide braided, which is called a lasso. It is 7 or 8 fathoms long with a loop at the end to form a noose.

The Spaniard mounted on a swift horse with his lasso in hand, holding it to create the noose about 4 feet in diameter and swinging it around his head to keep it connected, pursuing the wild cattle and horses of that country and arriving at the proper distance while both the pursued and the pursuer are at utmost speed throws his noose with such precision as to generally succeed in fastening it to the animal in the intended place. At the same time, with his left hand, he turns around the saddle's pommel, which is made high for that purpose, with the end of the rope remaining in his hand.

If the animal pursued is a horse he is caught around the neck and is soon choked down. Suppose a steer is captured by the horns and generally by two persons, one riding before the animal and one behind, holding him between them by their respective lassos with the power of resistance.

Suppose it is the object to throw the animal down. In that case, the horseman throws for the feet and having caught and fastened the rope to the saddle giving the horse a start, the animal's feet are pulled from under at once. In this manner, they can handle almost any animal in the country without excepting even the elk. Still, the principal use of this daring and active exercise is catching the wild horse and wild cattle that range the country in great numbers.

I am also informed that they are taken in this manner when a bear can be found in the open country. But they do not attempt this adventure singly. The truth of this is that I have some doubts. The only bear found in this country is the grizzly bear, smaller than those of the mountains yet notwithstanding a formidable animal and possessing sufficient strength, as I think to take hold of the lasso when noosed around the neck and tear it from the saddle or break it in an instant.

Ordered to San Diego

8th December 1826 At this time, the Mercury ranges from 50 to 70. Today the Corporal received orders to forward me to San Diego to visit his excellency Hosea Maria De Acheondia. Captain Cunningham of the ship Courier of Boston arrived about the same time from San Diego.

9th December 1826 Capt Cunningham had been trading on this coast since the preceding July exchanging dry goods, groceries, and hardware for hide and specie. The population does not admit a wholesale business. The sales are made in retail while passing along the coast from Acapulco to San Francisco. He expected to be on the coast for about a year longer then. He spoke Spanish and manifested the most friendly disposition and a willingness to give me all the assistance in his power. Therefore, I was pleased to learn he was about to return to San Diego and that we could travel in Company.

At 11 O Clock, all preparations were made and we started. The government furnished my horses, some being driven along for the purpose of having a change. The Commandant sent a soldier as a guide to take charge of the loose horses and catch one if necessary.

Just before starting, the Commandant told me that he was instructed to send a good and careful soldier. In this country, horses are so plenty and cheap. As I shall soon show, the people have so little feeling for these noble animals (as I shall soon show) that they indulge freely in the common disposition for fast riding securely that when a horse can no longer travel, another may be cheaply and easily procured. Therefore, we fell in with the spirit of the time and people and moved off at a gallop over a fine-level country.

Four miles from San Gabriel we crossed a stream 50 yards wide and shallow and sandy. On the right, a country gently undulating extended to the ocean a distance of 20 or 30 miles, and on the left, a range of high and rough hills.

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About 18 miles from the first mentioned creek, we crossed another 80 yards wide in appearance like the first, and three miles further came to a farm. In this distance, we had passed many herds of cattle belonging to the residents of the Angel village and some thousands of wild horses. The wild horses sometimes become so abundant to eat the grass relatively clean.

My guide informed me that the village's inhabitants and vicinity collect whenever they consider the country overstocked. They build a large and sturdy pen with a small entrance and two wings extending from the access to the right and left. Then mounting their swiftest horses, they scour the country and surrounding large bands they drive them into the enclosure by hundreds.

The brutal California method of training bridle horses
The California Method - Edward Vischer, 1874

They will perhaps lasso a few of the most handsome and take them out of the pack. A horse selected in this manner is immediately thrown down and altered, blindfolded, saddled, and haltered (for the Californians always commence with the halter). The horse can then get up, and a man is mounted. When he is firmly in his seat and the halter in his hand, an assistant takes off the blind the several men on horseback with handkerchiefs to frighten and some with whips to whip-raise the yell, and away they go. The poor horse, so severely punished and spooked, does not think of flouncing but dashes off at no slow rate for a trial of his speed. After running until he is exhausted and finds he cannot eliminate his enemies, he gives up.

He is tied for 2 or 3 days, saddled, and ridden occasionally. If he proves docile, he is bound by the neck to a tame horse until he becomes attached to the company, then let loose. But if a horse proves immediately refractory, they do not trouble themselves with him long but release him from his bondage by thrusting a knife to his heart.

Cruel as this fate may seem, it is a mercy compared to the hundreds left in the pack, for they die a most lingering and horrible death within a narrow space without the possibility of escape. Without a morsel to eat, they gradually lose their strength and sink to the ground making vain efforts to regain their feet, when at last, all-powerful hunger has left them, the strength to raise their heads from the dust, their eyes becoming dim with the approach of death, may catch a glimpse of green and widespread pastures and winding streams while they are perishing from want.

They die one by one, and at length, the last and strongest sinks down among his companions to the plain. No man of feeling can imagine such a scene without surprise, indignation, and pity. Indignation and wonder that men are so heartless and unfeeling. Pity for the noblest of animals dying from want amid fertile fields. A disgraceful fact to the Californians not credited to a single narrator but has been since corroborated.

But to return to this digression, the farm of which I have before spoken belonged to Don Thomas (the remainder of his name I have forgotten). He was not home, but his wife invited us into a house of two or three rooms and informed us that her husband was expected. We, therefore, concluded to wait for his arrival. I observed some sugar cane growing in the garden which appeared quite thrifty.

It was not long before we were called to eat. The attention of these people is, in that respect, truly proverbial. We sat at a table where the tablecloth, napkins, and plates were clean. The spoons were of silver, but neither knives nor forks were there, for the ordinary people of this country seldom have these articles. Our repast consisted of a hash highly seasoned with pepper, tortillas (pancakes), and wine. The blessing was asked by a boy 8 or 9 years old, standing at the end of the table with his hands raised. Not being pronounced in the usual hurried manner, it had much more the appearance of devotion. I then thought now that some of the learned fathers might learn the air of faith from this little boy, if not the substance.

Soon after we had finished eating, Don Thomas arrived. Having ascertained our wants, he said as his horses were some distance off, we could have to remain all night, or if we were in a great hurry, we could start at one or two o'clock in the morning. By that time, he could have the horses.

We started our journey at two o'clock, and at eight o'clock, we arrived at the Mission of San Juan, about 25 miles. The first part of this distance traveled at night, and I could not so well form an idea of its appearance. But it seemed much like we had passed. Judging from the noise the wild horses made in running when we were scared off by our approach or when taking the wind, I would think of them as numerous as in the country before described. As we approached the ocean, the country became hilly.

The Mission of San Juan is about a mile from the ocean in a hilly and barren country. In 1811, an earthquake nearly destroyed the church at this Mission. Since then, services have taken place in one of the smaller buildings. The buildings are similar in construction and arrangement to those at St Gabriel.

Mission San Juan Capistrano
Mission San Juan Capistrano - 1900 (colorized)

On our arrival at San Juan, the people were at church. The number of Indians is not significant at this Mission, nor is it more than half as rich as that of St Gabriel. As soon as service was over, the steward invited us to take a cup of chocolate, a beverage the Spaniards are very fond of and of which the higher class make great use, particularly in the morning; to Americans, generally offer tea as they have an idea that we are very fond of it. I have seen them grind tea as they would coffee which is evidence that they do not make much use of it.

My soldier presented his instructions to the Corporal at the Mission, who soon supplied us with fresh horses and a new Soldier. We then pushed on, our way leading us for some miles directly along the ocean's beach. The country is to back rough and hilly until we come to an old, nearly deserted Mission. There is but an overseer and a few Indians to occupy it. From this place, our course was southeast through hills covered with bastard cedar till just at night when we arrived at the handsome Mission of San Louis Rey, a distance from San Juan, I think, about 50 miles. This Mission is on the ground rising between two small creeks. The building was similar to San Gabriel's but appeared better from having been lately whitewashed. On the east side, a Portico extended the whole length of the buildings.

Remaining there during the night and in the morning, exchanging soldiers and horses, we proceeded on through a hilly country about 30 miles to San Diego. When we arrived at the Presidio, I was taken to the office of the Lieutenant. Upon the arrival of an interpreter procured by Captain Cunningham, I was informed that I could not see the Governor until the next day. Captain Dana of the Ship Waverly from the Sandwich Islands invited me to his quarters. Captain Dana was a Bostonian and an amiable man. Having ascertained that I would be at liberty to choose my residence, I accompanied him to a private house about 1/4 of a mile from the Presidio where Captain Cunningham and himself always put up when on shore.

The following day I went to see the Governor or General (as he is known here by both of those titles, although when in Mexico, I am told he ranked as a Major). When I let him know my situation and my wants, he told me it would be some days before he could answer me as it would be necessary to call a Council of officers, etc. In the meantime, he observed I should be furnished with a room and every necessary with such clothing as I wanted, for as I had on my leather hunting shirt, he readily supposed a change would be desirable. I thanked him for his kindness but told him as Capt Cunningham was my countryman, I would prefer remaining with him and being under obligation to him for any supplies I might want. He consented, and I accompanied Captain Cunningham on board his ship Courier and was told to consider it my home. I there became acquainted with Mr. Shaw, the supercargo Mr. Theodore Cunningham's 1st mate, a brother of the Captain, and Mr. Blackder, 2nd Mate.

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Mohave Villages

Mohave People

Desert Crossing

Mojave River

The Mountains

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