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History: Military in the Mojave Fort Soda(Hancock's Redoubt, Fort Soda Lake, and Camp Soda Springs)
This desert camp, variously named for the dry soda lake in its vicinity, was first established south of
Baker,
San Bernardino County,
in the spring of 1860 by men of the 1st Dragoons and called Hancock's Redoubt. Latter, in the spring of 1867, an outpost was maintained there
for a few weeks. Then, beginning on August 21, 1867, the site was manned almost continuously as an outpost of
Camp Cady,
35 miles distant, until May 23, 1868, when it was abandoned by the Army permanently.
The guardhouse's original walls can be detected for first couple of feet above ground. Original construction was without mortar, but was so solid that it could be built upon with only minor improvement. Unchinked portion of walls is original part; obviously roofs, window, and painted area are new. Building now serves as dining room for California State University Fullerton's Desert Research Center. Soda lake from Fort Soda was described in 1866 by Army Inspector Rusling as "a vast basin, rimmed around with desolate hills and mountains, and during the rainy season a considerable body of water, indeed, collects here. Soon, however, evaporation does its work, and the lake proper subsides to little or nothing, worth speaking of. When we were there, it was said to be 20 miles long, by four or five wide, though of course everything very marshy or shallow." This was before Fort Soda was re-established and "there was no house or even but there; no person or living thing; and what with the heat, and glare, and awful desolation-I think it was about the most wretched and miserable day I spent everywhere." Rusling suggested situation was complicated by presence of Indian fires in hills during night, suggesting possibility of attack. Even more so, he noted that a rattlesnake had crawled into blankets of member of party, causing uproar when owner arose in morning. "After this," Rusling added, "we usually retired with all our clothes and tallest boots on." This view is across Soda Lake toward Cow hole and Old Dad Mountains and Devil's Playground. In 1871 officer's wife passed here, wrote, "I had no idea that such a forlorn district was comprised within the limits of the United States . . . We traveled 18 miles through deep sand, which is the hardest thing imaginable on the poor mules, for their feet being very small sink deep in, the last few miles being through choking dust." Lake was last full in 1937 when it flooded entire area. Stone buildings were used by travelers in years after Army left, then by German chemical company in 1910's. Company rebuilt buildings so that modern inspection of site cannot be certain whether buildings date from that period or earlier. Layout and building identifications are based on local legend. Site is 930 feet above sea level, quite a drop from 5079 feet only 42 miles to east near Rock Springs. |
![]() Soda Lake Playa Also see: Soda Lake
Mojave Road
Camp Cady
A History of Zzyzx 1860-1870
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