Crossing the Colorado Again

Having remained at this place about 8 days I made a raft and crossed the river and for the first day traveled nearly west passing through the Rocky hills by a deep ravine which brought me through to the plain then a little north of west 15 miles to another range of hills where I found water and cane grass and encamped. At night the most valuable horse I had was stolen for although I had a guard yet it was so dark that the horse was led out unperceived. The next day I travelled west through the range of hills to the plain where the trail could not be followed and where I was obliged to encamp without water. I had supposed that I should be able to follow the trail from the directions given by the indians which being found impracticable and a great scarcity of water becoming more apparent I rode and sent others to the high hills and deep ravines in every direction to Look for water and as none could be found the Idea came forcibly to mind that it was the policy of the Indians to send me into the desert to perish. In this situation I saw no alternative but to retrace my steps. on my way back I found an Indian and a boy following our trail for some purpose unknown to me. They had water with them which would convey the Idea that the country where I turned back was for some distance destitute of it. On seeing us one of them ran off I did not pursue him but kept the other with me until I got to the spring where I had before encamped. It will be readily imagined that by this time we were much in want of water. During the night the Indians ran off. The next day I moved to the river and found that the Indians had all gone from their Loges leaving everything the could not carry off.

It was now prudent to prepare for the worst which I did by making a pen for my horses and encamping under a bank of the River which would answer as a breastwork in the emergency which the singular conduct of the indians led me to expect. However the little renegade Francisco  (that spoke spanish) came to the opposite bank of the river in the morning and after hallowing plunged in and swam over. I asked the reason of the singular behaviour of the Indians. He said the Indians that got away from me told them I was coming back to kill them all for stealing my horse. To this I answered that it was all folly to tell them to return and be friendly as usual. It was true I must have my horse but I would not think of punishing the whole of them for the fault of the single scoundrel that stole him. I also told him to tell the chiefs that they must get the horse and bring him to me in which event all would be well. Francisco left me and in the evening the Indians returned to their Lodges. The chiefs came to see me and said that the Indian that stole my horse had gone off some distance but that they would have him back as soon as possible and oblige him to deliver the horse. They wished me to recross the river and as the grass was poor at that place I complied with their request and after crossing moved down the river about ten miles where the settlement is also considerable  and the country like that above with the exceptions that there are some small prairaes of tolerable good sandy soil producing Melons and corn and some ponds and slous in which portions of the river run in high water. The grass at this place was much better than at any place above and the productions the same as those mentioned before though perhaps in greater abundance than in the upper part of the settlement. Their wheat is planted in hills. As they have no fences what few horses they have are kept constantly tied by a long halter and at this season are fed on Pumpkins and melons of which they appear verry fond. They ride without saddle or Bridle but by the help of a wide Circingle under which the slip their feet they are enabled to sit firmly. Melons were supplied in such numbers that I had frequently 3 or 400 piled up before my tent. A great many women and children were generally about us. Among the Amuchabas I did not find any verry influential chiefs.

He that has the most wives and consequently the most numerous connexion is the greatest man. There was one chief which we called Red Shirt from the circumstance of his wearing a shirt made out of a piece of red cloth which I had given him.  He was about 40 years of age and appeared to be a great favorite among the women. He frequently stayed at my tent and slept with any of the women he chose. No indians I have seen pay so much deference to the women as these. Among indians in general they have not the privilege of speaking on a subject of any moment but here they harangue the Multitude the same as the men. While here Francisco came to me and requested I would go and see a man who was verry sick. I told him I was no Physician but these indians thinking a white man could do anything I was obliged to go to satisfy them. When I arrived at the spot 3 or 400 people were assembled but the man was dead. Seeing a large pile of wood I enquired of the interpreter the meaning he informed they were about to burn the corpse which was soon brought and laid on the pile, and also a small bag of net work containing his property. It appeared the man had died from the swelled neck a disorder I think quite common here as I observe many with their necks much scarified a remedy which appeared to have been applied to the case of the deceased as there was a good deal of Blood on his neck. Two or three women were crying and screaming and came to the pile apparently in the greatest agony embracing the corpse. They were pulled off and fire was put to the pile which was soon in flames. The mourners took some strips of Red cloth and whatever they thought most valuable and threw them in the flames. I left them but Francisco told me the deceased had two horses which were already killed and on them the people would now feast. It being a great object with me to procure a guide no means were left untried and finally I succeeded in engaging two Indians that lived in the vicinity of the Spanish Settlements. The stolen horse having been returned I moved to the proper point and crossed over the River for the purpose of making another attempt to cross the plain to California. Having remained at the Amuchabas several days. The first day I traveled the same course as on the preceeding attempt and encamped at the same spring.

The next day on the same route till I came to the place where I had before lost the trail then traveling a little north of west and passing some detached hills on the right and left just before night we came to a hill of rocks and at its foot a small spring where I encamped.